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TRAVEL DIARY | LADAKH- SOMETHING OF A DREAM

When everyone told me that a trip to Ladakh will change my life, I couldn't help but take it with a pinch of salt. It seemed like a bit of a over sell and besides, what does life changing even mean? Its not like I was gonna return with a healthier body, better finances, improved lifestyle or whatever one counts as life change...Plus our trip was planned on a whim, in place of a "cooler" trip that we realised we couldn't afford. So what started with major nonchalance ended up well, not changing, but impacting my life in a way I didn't know it was to be.

Ladakh, for me, was a journey that mimics life. Its long, rough in parts, exhausting, at times really challenging but also so very exciting, overwhelming and later, humbling. One moment you're gasping for breath, and in the next you're left breathless with the beauty.

A friend of mine found this statement bizarre but the beauty of Ladakh was an assault for my senses. I have never ever been this overwhelmed by nature. We drove for hours through stretches of brown and ochre, set against a sky so blue that I almost didn't notice the lack of roads in a few places. It didn't tire or bore. It was just as fascinating on day 9 as on day 1.

But I'll rest my inner Keats for now and get to a few details a lot of friends have requested. Turns out Ladakh travel is quiet a mystery for the uninitiated and while some of the concerns are legit, I want to clarify the larger anxiety. No one should miss out on experiencing this place and I am stating down a few learning we wished we knew. I'll keep the story telling limited and focus on the information, but can't promise I won't get carried away every now and then :)
Settle down with a cuppa if you'd like to read on, this is a long one.

First up, the ITINERARY.

We reached Delhi on 11th September and left Leh on 21st September. This period is supposed to be off-season since the roads close by early or mid-October.

Day 1: Four of us travelled from 4 parts of the country; literally. We gathered in Delhi and set off for Manali at 9PM via bus from ISBT

Day 2: We reached Manali around noon. We spent the day and night in Manali. Our hotel was in new Manali and was pretty good for the rate. We ordered lunch at the cottage and stepped out for dinner to the Mall road. I called it an early night. I was too excited to start the road trip! :D

Day 3: Next morning, we set off for Leh around 7AM. We stopped for breakfast on the outskirts of Manali and lunch break was midway, the name of the place is failing me right now

BREAKFAST OF THE TRUE TRAVELLER: PARATHAS & GINGER HONEY LEMON TEA

Our hault that night was at Jispa, after almost twelve hours on the road. Our agenda was to stay at Sarchu but our driver told us that we would literally freeze our butts to death there. So, Jispa it was..the butt- friendly choice!

THE SECLUDED BEAUTY: JISPA

If for some reason our trip had to end in Jispa, I would not have a single complaint. The phrase middle of nowhere may as well have been coined here. There are about 5 or 6 accomodation options. Very basic. We crossed the road from our little guest house and walked for abut 10 mins following a trickling sound and we reached here...

A PIECE OF MY HEART IS LEFT BY THIS RIVULET

Day 4: With another 12 hours on road ahead of us, we set off for Leh. Breakfast at Bharatpur, lunch at Pang. The roads on this route are particularly nasty. However, you are met with a pleasant surprise by the name of More plains, little ahead of Pang. This 40 kms road makes the previous many kms of no-road, totally worth it. We reached Leh around 6.30PM.

MORE PLAINS

Day 5: A crucial day to acclimatize, we stayed in Leh and spent it by visiting the Shanti Stupa, the Leh Palace and a visit to the Kargil Hall of Fame, which was really special. It is a war museum dedicated to the Kargil war of 1999 and I would strongly recommend a trip. The hardships and valour of our amazing army became so much more real while looking through the exhibits. I have never felt more patriotic than I did here.

THE MAGESTIC SHANTI STUPA

CITY VIEW FROM THE LEH PALACE

Day 6: Bright and early we were ready for Nubra. The route was planned in a way that we cross Khardungla before an army convoy was to pass and then make it to Nubra in daylight to first see Sumur monastery, then drive back to the sand dunes at Hunder and then head to the village for our night stay. On our way back we saw the Diskit monastery, one of my favourite sites.

WHITE SAND DUNES AT HUNDER

DISKIT MONASTERY

Day 7: We were ideally hoping to leave for Pangong from Nubra, to save a day, but the road we planned to take was shut due to landslide. As four disgruntled travellers were making their way back to Leh, the Universe was feeling magnanimous that morning. On our drive up, it was chillier than the day before and we noticed that the mountain tops were quiet foggy. Our driver explained that it was infact snowing up top which to me was super exciting. You see, I had not seen snow until then and knowing that it was snowing somewhere near me was enough. But not even in my most hopeful imagination did I think that when I reach Khardungla top, I'd witness snowfall for the first time in my life...Yep, that happened. My trip was made.

Day 8: Leh to Pangong. All I will say is, the austerity of this journey is justified only and only by this sapphire jewel that lies at the end of it.

PANGONG TSO

PANGONG TSO

This scenery of ochre and azure will enrapt you to submission until the night falls. But oh! when that happens... I still cannot string adequate words together to express that feeling. No one I'd spoken to had adequately articulated just how magical the Pangong night sky is. They talk about the nonchalantly passing shooting stars every few minutes, but not about how the sky looks like its about to run out of space to contain all the stars! No one told me that constellation spotting is passe at Pangong, when you can gawk at the Milky Way! It was almost like staring at a planetarium ceiling, only better. Neck craned, eyes wide in awe, breath short and suddenly there were tears rolling down my face, that I till date cannot explain.

Day 9: I would have given anything to spend another day and night at Pangong but that wasn't to be. We headed back to Leh but I kid you not, I think I left my soul there by the lake side.

Day 10: It was Sunday. The last day of our trip. Four of us split that day to do our own thing and soak it all in. I spent the day visiting my favourite spots in the city, saying bye to the various sellers and shop owners who had a strange knack of remembering you. It broke my heart when all of them wished me to return. The joy and smiles on their faces while there was so little to be had. That was life changing right there

Day 11: Departure by air at 7 AM. Just like that I left heaven and reached concrete madness in the capital.

If you ask me, I'd have to say an ideal itinerary would require two to three more days. I would have liked to add a day's rest between Nubra and Pangong and just slow down and imbibe the pace of Ladakh. I would have also loved to spend another night at Pangong. We had planned Zanskar valley and rafting for the very next day after returning from Pangong. But some of us were so tired that it had to be scrapped . So a day there.

Now the most FAQ...

COST

Ladakh is known to be very expensive. The primary cost I figured is the travel- to reach and within. A friend of mine went with an organised group and did a total luxury holiday and spent near about a lakh she says. One of our key agendas was to travel in a pack to cut costs and that helped. Minus our respective flights, the trip expenses came to 15K! This is primarily due to the off-season rates + we were a bit lenient about accommodation (e.g. Hot water- YES / TV- NO) and meals. Here is a breakup if you'd like...

COSTS IN INR

Now, few things everyone should know before their trip

CRITICAL KNOWLEDGE

Ladakh is NOT a garden variety holiday destination. It is best described as an adventure destination which means you will be required to stretch your limits every now and then. I was worried that my city girl afflictions will get the better of me but I was so happy to realise that when the moment came, it was all so spontaneous and easy that I really took myself by surprise.

This experience also made me realise that a large part of who we think we are, are basically hypothetical. The role of travel is to discover the real you. I'm sure you've read this before but I actually felt it, which was a pretty cool.

There is no cell reception for the most part. Let friends and family know this so they don't worry themselves silly. At Jispa, friend of mine had to hitch a bike ride and travel 40 mins before finding a functional phone to call her parents
There, however is free WiFi almost everywhere in Leh city. Go figure.
The roads are tough. In some stretches they are really, really bad. Its good to be mindful about this. Car sickness medicines, water, puke bags and oddly, camphor help.
Food is very basic. Especially when you are travelling from point A to B. Leh however offers multi cuisine choices.
You are not allowed cabin baggage on flights out of Leh. We managed to get our cameras though. Pack accordingly.

MEDICAL

Well, there is a lack of oxygen and there is no denying it. The physical ailment comes with the high altitude and its not a challenge to anyone's age or fitness levels. So its best to not get all bullheaded and be prepared. I, with no qualms went to my GP before the trip and got my BP, pulse, oxygen all checked. I discussed the few concerns I had in mind and he prescribed drugs to fight the oxygen issue and something for nausea (from road or height sickness). I didn't need the nausea pill at all and I took the oxygen pill from Day 1 to 9 as prescribed with zero side effects. Frankly, I would not do it any other way, if it means I am able to enjoy the place in good health and not be a burden on my fellows

Lack of sleep and appetite are normal altitude change symptoms. I never got sound night's sleep but I felt rested by morning, so it made no difference.

Medical help in Ladakh is administered by the army and they are very used to dealing with tourists. I have never been so proud of our army folks.

No one said this anywhere, but the place is dusty! I mean, really really DUSTY! If you have allergies, you better brace yourself

Its a little difficult to gauge yourself, but Ladakh is supremely dehydrating. Drinking water is a must. I was told by three different shopkeepers on different days to shut up and drink water first. Seriously! A no-water drinker like me gulped down upto 6 litres a day! It is also a good idea to supplement with a litre of ORS if you are walking around a lot. Hydration never killed anyone. Or I hope not!

This one may be silly, but I figured taking smaller steps helped me not wheeze and gasp like an oldie. It was tad embarrassing to be all panting and fretting after an uphill stretch but that's the price you pay for leading a sedentary life :(

Pangong being higher than Leh is susceptible to give breathing discomfort. On the way down from Pangong is when the AMS hits most people. Don't worry. Just travel to the army camp at ChangLa. They are well equipped to deal with medical emergencies.

I am yet to find out the science behind it (and belive me, I'm trying) but smelling camphor really helped with the nausea. I had it with me at Khardungla and I sailed through with no sick feeling.

GENERAL EXPERIENCE

Travelling in off-season was the best thing we did. Not only was our travel cost reduced by half (if not more), we were able to checkout accommodations in person and choose. But most importantly, I was very grateful not being swarmed by loud, cackling tourists at most of the places. This is coming from the fact that at a certain monastery where I felt a strong pull to meditate, I was not allowed the chance by a very kind and ridiculously loud bunch of tourists yelling away regardless of the place and the decorum it demands. Same at the shanti stupa meditation hall where a bunch of people walked in, chattered away to glory & took pictures with the shutter sound on loud. Yes, there was a sign that said it was a meditation hall! Our driver told us that in season, there are often as many as 200 people at Pangong lake and believe me I cannot imagine the place with that many people without a shudder

Four is the perfect contingent to travel Ladakh comfortably and cost-effectively. By comfortably, I mean you will be able to avoid the back seat travel which is not a good idea on rough, mountain roads where puke bags are your best friend

Avoid eating just before hitting the road. If you are not usually car sick or mountain sick, this is a sure shot way of getting it

Carry a cap. Also, carry front opening sweaters/ jackets if possible. There was a LOT of stripping involved during our car travels and I went through some serious shit doing this. When in the car, it would get bloody hot with the windows up and the sun bearing down. But the moment you step out, the breeze and chill will send you brrrr-ing right back inside. Here's proof captured totally by accident...(WARNING: you might wanna turn your volume down a notch)

This is at Rohtang Pass, elevated at 13000 feet, approx. I love how real this "video" is.

Be mindful of the natural habitat and lifestyle. Ladakh is a slow, easy place. Food takes its time to arrive so no point bellowing and throwing city tantrums. It's best to just let your tailbone relax and go with the pace. Another thing, Ladakh is a no plastic zone but they do sell packaged water. We felt obligated to recycle the bottles we purchased by refilling. On the day of leaving, we donated all our bottles to a shop that recycles plastic bottles.

Photographs are great. But videos are better.

BUT lastly,

Don't hide behind the lenses. There came a point where I just refused to lift my camera and chose to look and just look it all in. A friend of mine had said, "In Ladakh you feel grateful to have eyes" and boy, there are no truer words ever spoken.

Ladakh is a traveller’s paradise. If you have clocked the miles and seen it all, you'll be humbled by the simplicity and power of raw beauty. If you are just setting out, like me, it will be enrapting and overwhelming and then, inviting to see more. As a friend of mine said, now you know that a such a world exists parallel to yours. It was there before you and it will be there after.

And I can choose to reach that world when I want...